For Spring/Summer 2023 season, inspiration continues to come from both the natural and the virtual worlds, as print and pattern trends continue to expand on the underlying theme of highlighting environmental or social issues – expressing the need of the times.
Stripes of every kind are reimagined in vibrant colourways, placing an emphasis on the phrase – ‘the bolder the better’. As people around the globe resort to voice their opinions in order to effect radical social and political changes, a kitsch version of conversation prints is on display. The essence of spring is represented by flat florals and placement prints.
Milan became a hot spot for animal prints, with many designers using the zebra print and even actual zebras as part of their designs.
Mismatched prints can be mixed with kitschy patterns. Classic black and white stripes can also be used to create electric neons or cobalt blues. Coloured zebra stripes and simplified social statement graphics were just a few of the many combinations that were displayed on the international runways for Spring/Summer 2023. Add to that, plenty of bright colours, tie-dyes and ombrés creating a ‘dopamine’ feel to the clothes – and you have the perfect round-up for the upcoming season.
Apparel Resources, (AR) This report contains the top trends in colour and print patterns for the Spring/Summer 2023 seasons. Continue reading to find out.
Cobalt blue
Numerous designers are embracing blue in their Spring/Summer 2023 collections. Cobalt is the most popular hue of the season, despite the wide range of colors.
At New York, Jason Wu presented a cold-shouldered chiffon blouse with coordinated pants and an overlaying backward ‘apron’, whilst David Koma showed a jacket made in technical fabric and matching mini skirt, over-the-knee boots and faux fur bag in London. Alberta Ferretti showed a cobalt blue satin strapless, strapless jumpsuit and a double-plaited waist belt in Milan. Off-White Paris presented a tight sweater knit dress with cold shoulder and a cropped turtleneck in a sweater knit.
Rainbows:
Tapping on the dopamine trend, designers across London, Milan, Paris and New York embraced bright colours, tie-dyes and ombrés adding a ‘rainbow effect’ sort of vibe to their pieces.
The London-based Agr is well-known for its brightly colored knitwear and nightclub vibe. The brand showcased a tie-and dye rainbow effect sweater paired alongside shiny tech pants. It was accompanied by a crossbody bag with an AGR logo. Marcelo Burlon showed a long-line tank top and matching wide-leg pants in ’60s-inspired tie-dye, whilst Études Aurélien Arbet, José Lamali and Jérémie Egry used a kaleidoscope of colours for the finale of their S/S ’23 show. Look 34 featured a shirt and shorts with a tie-dye pattern in rainbow colours.
Neon Green
Post-pandemic, consumers have been more expressive – opting for bolder and more daring fashion choices – and the trend continues well into the new season across the fashion capitals.
Michael Kors presented a three-piece co-ord suit featuring a crop top, two button blazer and pants – all in head-to-toe neon green, creating a statement, while Mark Fast in London, presented a halter neck mini corset dress with side lacing in the same electrifying shade.
Etro showed a neon green satin skirt with an asymmetrically wide fringed hem and a matching bra top and cap in Milan. Abra presented a mock turtleneck dress in Paris with star embellishment and an unsymmetrical hemline.
Kitsch is key
A style that began in the art world, kitsch can either be defined as art that appeals to popular taste rather than high-brow standards, or works or items that may be objectively ‘ugly’, but are appreciated in a knowing and ironic way. Kitsch is often used to describe fashion. It is a combination of different references that are not compatible to make something bold and striking.
This maximalism trend is marked by exaggerated sentimentality, melodrama, and it can be said that it began with Alessandro Michele’s 2015 Gucci helm. After which, season after season of Gucci, more designers started to get on board the kitschy train. Spring/Summer 2023 was no exception.
Fausto Puglisi’s third collection for Roberto Cavalli was an ‘ode to old Hollywood’ and included some maximalist prints made popular in the period between the two world wars. Look 28 featured a tunic as well as stockings in a palm tree print under an evening coat with a leopard print.
Among the ‘rockstar’ styles at Philipp Plein were a series of looks rendered in a hearts and roses print reminiscent of ‘fifties tattoos’. Plein showed Plein a skater-style, red, pink, and green dress with a white background. Marco Rambaldi’s collection included several multi-coloured, bold conversation prints.
Print mashup
As consumers seek to express themselves in bold fashion choices, mix-and-match patterns are gaining popularity. Snow Xue Gao, a designer who is keen to capitalize on this trend, presented a slip dress with an asymmetric hem. It was rendered in two prints – a re-coloured camouflage and a geometric flat floral.
Marrisa Wilson, Spring/Summer 2023’s designer, found inspiration in Guyana’s culture and colours. Her parents emigrated from Guyana to the US. Look 10 featured a mid length dress in three distinct abstract prints.
Studio 189 was a label created by Abrima Erwiah, Rosario Dawson and featured five prints, including a stencilled flower, large dots and variegated stripes. They were all printed in a variety of orange, red, yellow, and white colors.
Linear motives
Linear patterns aka stripes are big this season – and they come in broadly two variations – one is the classic monochrome, wherein we see black and white and navy blue and white take centre stage, whilst in the other, we see a medley of colours coming together to create a joyful vibe for spring.
Daniela Gregis presented a large black and white stripe voile dress, cinched with crochet belt. Ports61 used classic menswear as inspiration to show a number graphic prints. The look 26 collection featured a silk shirt and pants combination in stripes in navy and white. Vivetta featured a boldly colored pantsuit in bold white and blue stripes. Anteprima had a range of bold stripes styles, including look 27 which was a tank dress with a side split and shorts. All styles were in variegated white, black and silver stripes.
New neutrals
Balancing the massive influx of dopamine-inspired colourways, mismatched prints and maximalist patterns, we see a new wave of neutrals sweeping the runways – posing as the perfect yin to the yang.
Burberry showed off a new twist on its classic raincoat in London. It was paired with matching pants. Adam Lippes, New York, showed a dirndl-style skirt with matching ruffled top.
Bottega Veneta showed Milan slender pants and a cream top under a plaid top. Gauchere in Paris presented a three piece suit with a two-button jacket and overlong pants as well as a top with a crinkled finish.
Preppy
The Spring/Summer 2023 runways were awash with the return of the ‘preppy’ look, especially in a big way for the men’s segment, wherein the trend is being showcased with a new twist: less Ivy League, more ‘sport street’.
This season also sees the trend being rendered in a wide range of colourways – right from pale pastels at Rhude, to neons at MSGM to burgundy and black at Dries Van Noten. Cable knit sweaters, bermuda pants and collegiate lettering were key accents.
At Kenzo, Nigo used the concept of a ‘passing out ceremony,’ inspired by one of Kenzo Takada’s 1980s shows which was based on the idea of a school’s sports day. Look 22 featured a two button seersucker blouse in green and yellow stripes, paired alongside yellow and red striped Bermudas and marled knit irregular socks. The loafers were fringed with white fringe and had two buttons. Alexandre Mattiussi presented a mix of Parisian cool and American prepster style at Ami. Look 17 featured a navy and white striped ringer shirt and shorts with flap pockets under a windcheater. The look was completed with a baseball hat, socks, and sandals.
Thom Browne kept true to its original style and presented a range of looks that included blazers, tweed coats, pants, and long pleated skirts.
MSGM presented a jersey in black and broad pink stripes to Milan. It was embellished with the MSGM brand crest. It was worn over a blue-and-white striped shirt, shorts, and black socks with MSGM brande sneakers.
Making social statements
The post-pandemic era has seen a period of social change and a new wave protest movements. These have mobilised people and allowed them to express themselves and their opinions in large numbers.
As a way to find their voice again and express themselves, many consumers are turning to clothing that features graphic statements.
To maximize impact, brands have begun to use bold and simple one-word prints on the front and back of tees, and outerwear. Vertical placements make it possible to make bigger statements on longline pieces, while contrast backgrounds amplify outsized letters.
All matched up
Many designers showcased exquisitely tailored pieces and coordinated separates this season.
Saint Laurent presented an oversized blouse with a neck scarf and overlong pants, all rendered in a bold black and cream polka dot print, whilst Christian Wijnants showed three pieces in acid green parachute silk – namely, an oversized blouse and knee length shorts under a trench coat.
Vetements presented a series of tailored looks where everything matched among the more expected streetwear and denim pieces his brand has come to be known for – including some styles that had been rendered in a chequered pattern and texture reminiscent of Tati shopping bags. The standout look was a wide-lapelled belted, belted raincoat that was worn over a shirt and long pants in striking blue and red plaid.
Pant suits in bright colours and all-over prints will continue to be popular this season, following their success at the retail level. Frederick Anderson’s version for Look 14 of his collection, showed a matching jacket and slim flared pants rendered in a blue and green no-print print.
Purple
Purple, long associated with royalty and fashion, is making a comeback for the Spring/Summer 2023 season.
In Milan, Giorgio Armani presented a one button-heavily embellished longline blazer in purple, with a matching skirt over pants in chiffon, while Marques’ Almeida showed a purple bias cut sweater and skirt with centre slit over knee high boots, in London. New York was the scene of LaQuan Smith’s low-rise pants, which were paired in a matching halter neck bra with purple sequins. This was paired with a white transparent blouse. Christian Wijnants presented a purple trench coat, with matching shorts and a white shirt that was paired with black patent platform shoes.
Zebra crossing
Animal prints are a well-known trend and they can be found in every season. Animal-inspired prints are a timeless classic that never fails to impress. This season, however, cements this fact even more.
Spring/Summer 2023 is a great season for zebra stripes. Many brands and designers are opting to use the distinctive animal print in their collections. The only difference this season – there is no holding back when it comes to colour! The vibrant zebra print is as original as the classic black and white!
Versace made a strong case with a long, fitted tunic in a red and burgundy zebra print over heavily embellished pants, whilst Missoni saw Filippo Grazioli rendering several of the house’s signature knits in monochromatic mixes of the print.
Stella Jean is a pro at mixing bold prints together. Some of her garments featured real pictures of zebras and others mixed zebra patterns with other prints. Look 2 boasted of both – a boxy short sleeve jacket featured a placed jungle print. This was worn over a bra and a skirt of mid-length. The skirt featured an orange crochet grid, ticking stripes, and a black and white zebra print with a red trim.
Gucci made heads turn with his choice of casting – twins walking down the ramp showcasing looks together. One of the brand’s looks saw a showstopping duo of maxi dresses in a sparkling orange and grey zebra pattern worn by twins, Jake and Josie Dupont.